Babylon, London

Babylon

Address:
The Roof Gardens
99 Kensington High Street
London
W8 5ED
Tel: 0207 368 3993
Rating:

(Review date: April 2007)

THE tranquil surrealism of the roof gardens at Babylon has a wow factor, which combined with some excellent and memorable dishes, offers an experience that is somewhat special.
The restaurant is a short amble from Kensington High Street tube station and into Derry Street, which takes you past the imposing Northcliffe House building, home of right-wing newspaper heavyweight The Daily Mail.
But while there is a degree of conservatism to the venue, beginning on the ground floor with the top-hatted doorman who shows you to the lift and continuing on to the minimalist design of the restaurant, that is where it ends.
On some nights you will find Pink Flamingos strutting around the gardens as you glance over the incongruous juxtaposition of trees and bushes onto the languid cityscape of south London.
And the three separate and equally stunning garden areas spanning one and a half acres create a haven from the busy streets below.
While the Woodland garden transports you to into the countryside of the home counties, the Spanish garden with its profusion of cushions would be a perfect setting for a hedonistic orgy of times gone by.
The interesting menu centres on homegrown meat and fish, with just the odd flourish of world cooking ingredients. I had Mature Keens cheddar and spring onion soufflé with piccalilli, rocket leaves, herb oil (£9), 28-day hung scottish beef rib eye with brussel top colcannon, wild mushrooms, Madeira wine sauce (£26.50) and poached Champagne rhubarb trifle with Grand Marnier custard (£7).
Now, I’m not a salt Nazi, in fact I love salt and despite the tobacco-style ‘salt can cause a slow and painful death’ warnings I quite happily sprinkle it into or onto most things I cook and eat.
While all the dishes were delicious and excellently cooked (especially the beef and mash), what really shone through was the deft skill demonstrated by the chef in seasoning the dishes, for my tastes, almost perfectly. Not too little, not too much - let the natural flavours do most of the hard work and allow the seasoning to develop them just that little bit further.
The service from the friendly and attentive staff was expertly timed and understated allowing you to enjoy your company and view, possibly from the terrace if you’re lucky enough to book on a warm day.
Wine is slightly on the expensive side (£20 minimum) but the Stones Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (£26) hit the spot during my visit on an unseasonably warm April evening.

Visit: www.roofgardens.com/restaurant/overview/

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